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Spectral structure of breaking waves and its influence on the transport of sediments in coastal zoneтезисы доклада
Информация о цитировании статьи получена из
Web of Science,
Scopus
Дата последнего поиска статьи во внешних источниках: 6 апреля 2016 г.
- Авторы: Kuznetsov Sergey, Saprykina Yana, Shtremel Margarita, Kuznetsova Olga
- Сборник: MTS/IEEE OCEANS 2015
- Тезисы
- Год издания: 2015
- Место издания: Institute of Electrical & Electronics Engineers (IEEE) IEEE, Genova
- Первая страница: 1
- Последняя страница: 6
- DOI: 10.1109/OCEANS-Genova.2015.7271347
- Аннотация: On the base of field and laboratory experiments it is shown that the waves breaking by plunging type (Pl) and by spilling type (Sp) are differed by the relation of amplitudes of the first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relation of amplitude of the second harmonic to the first one is significantly greater when the waves breaking by Sp type than at breaking by Pl type. The waves breaking by Pl type have the second harmonic shifted forward the first harmonic on π/2 and they have negative asymmetry coefficient and skewness near zero. In the waves breaking by Sp type, phase shift is equal zero, the asymmetry is near zero and waves are symmetrical relative to vertical axis. Skewness of spilling waves is not equal zero, they are not symmetrical relative to horizontal axis. According to Bailard's formula for discharge of sediments, waves (Pl breaking type) symmetrical on horizontal axis don't transport sediments, but waves symmetrical on vertical axis (Sp breaking type) transport deposits to the coast. Taking into account an undertow, waves breaking by Pl type will move deposits to the sea, and waves breaking by Sp type - to the coast.
- Добавил в систему: Кузнецова Ольга Андреевна